The server madly pushes candles, plates, glasses away to clear a space in the middle of the table for the charcuterie presented on a foot-and-a-half-long cutting board. Most of it is made in-house — lovely rounds of rabbit galantine studded with pistachios, a delicate partridge terrine with truffles, jambon persillé (pig’s feet and Kurobuta ham with parsley pressed into a rectangle), slivers of deep red duck breast prosciutto (not all of them are available every day).

Manzke also turns out French canning jars filled with pork rillettes (pork cooked in pork fat that’s rather on the lean side here) topped with prunes and Armagnac, and fabulously silky and rich foie gras with a layer of Port gelée on top.

There’s peppery saucisson sec from Jason Balestrieri of Cantinetta Luca in Carmel (Manzke’s former sous chef), and a savory tongue and blood sausage from the European Deluxe Sausage Kitchen in Beverly Hills. Order up a bottle of sturdy red wine from the rustic, but limited, wine list and you’re good to go.

Another great dish to share is either of the Alsatian-style tarts. The first is aflammenküche, a large rectangular tart topped with sweet caramelized onions, cubes of bacon and Gruyère cheese rather than the traditional crème fraîche. It’s essentially a tomato-less pizza with bacon. What’s not to like? More sumptuous even is the tart blanketed in lemon crème fraîche, leeks and satiny smoked salmon. Not only is the topping terrific, the crust for both the tarts is thin and crunchy. The secret? The pastry is enriched with a little lard. And both tarts are so large, they’re too much for just two. Bring a few friends along and share as an appetizer.

And sharing is what most makes sense here. Everyone will want to taste everything. Plates fly around the table as someone wants to try the bouillabaisse, which is a kind of miracle. The broth actually tastes like something from the south of France, redolent of flavorful fish and loaded with prawns, mussels and clams. If you’re in a crowd, maybe you’d better get two: The portion isn’t huge, which is why they can charge just $18. Moules marinière is classic: mussels steamed in white wine and served with a heap ofpommes frites fried in lard, which gives them a wonderful flavor, even though the aioli that comes with them is too wimpy.

How can you not love a bistro that proposes herring and potato salad? In this case it’s smoked, marinated herring with boiled fingerling potatoes in a bright, vinegary dressing, with flower-shaped carrot slices for some crunch. Sometimes there’s a marvelous leek terrine, pretty and green, and served with a thatch of celery root salad.

Don’t pass up the escargots, an order of six, each served in an adorable tiny blue and white porcelain dish capped with a golden disk of puff pastry. There are plenty to share — or maybe not, once you dip your spoon into that garlicky snail butter and find out how good snails can be when made by somebody who really knows how to cook.

Keeping it simple

Manzke has wisely stripped the menu down to a single page, with most main courses under $20. Even the very decent steak frites, which come with house-made béarnaise, come in a smaller size — a petite assiette for a mere $14 as opposed to $24 for the regular.

We’re all seeking comfort food right now and chicken à la Bourgeoise is just what’s required, moist tender chicken roasted with carrots, pearl onions and bacon and served with a splash of the pan drippings. Manzke does a fine duck confit too, served with luscious braised red cabbage.

The same stripped-down aesthetic also serves the cheese selection well — not too many, but just enough. The half-dozen or so selections mean the restaurant isn’t left trying to sell off old cheeses.

By S. Irene Virbila, Restaurant Critic March 18, 2009