Mia Cucina Su Cucina » Restaurant Review

Tasty Tuesday

Mia — Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:21:47 +0000

Church and State Bistro (213) 405-1434
1850 Industrial St., Los Angeles, CA 90021

This evening we went to Church and State Bistro for dinner. Walter Manzke is the head chef and the following pictures are a few of the delicious dishes that we sampled tonight. (The pictures are quick snap shots with poor lighting. Not the best pictures.)

Tarte aux Peaches Blancs
White peaches, brie cheese, arugula

Bouillabaisse
Provencal fish soup, prawns, mussels, clams

Confit de Canard
Duck leg, potatoes Sarladaise, pickled cherries

The Coffee Groundz

Mia — Fri, 08 May 2009 19:01:47 +0000

I put up a sample of this article a few days back, so now I can finally put up the whole interview.

An interview with J.R. Cohen, the general manager of Coffee Groundz. It is a bit technician, but I love Twitter & food, so here it is.

Groundz Zero of the Technical Age

The Coffee Groundz is the premiere venue in Houston for tech geeks and cool kids to grab the best roasted cup of Joe in Houston. Their exotic selection of coffees – combined with charismatic atmosphere, gelato and paninis – sets the perfect tone. They specialize in locally produced gourmet coffees, teas, pastries and select wine offerings at competitive prices. Whether it’s a quick caffeine fix to get you going in the morning, a quiet spot to study in the afternoon, or an evening skyline view on the patio this is the place to be in Houston.

The Coffee Groundz is a busy establishment. There are a couple of comfy booths around the edges of the establishment and 16 laptop friendly tables. There’s room for another 10 tables out on the patio. They are currently in the process of enlarging their space. They have an abundance of electrical outlets and free WiFi to lure the digital generation into the place. They serve about 400 people on an average day.

I have never been to The Coffee Groundz nor have I ever met J.R. Cohen, General Manager. Rather, I’m privy to this information because I’m following him online on Twitter, the increasingly popular – and utterly addictive – social networking and micro blogging site that encourages users to “tweet,” or post messages about what they’re doing, in 140 characters or less. Once you sign up, you can follow anyone who doesn’t block their posts (most don’t). Although Twitter has been around since 2007, recent weeks have seen a massive surge in membership, particularly among the food-obsessed and the celebrities.

I actively started using Twitter in January 2009 and immediately started looking for people that were tweeting about food. It was not too long until I stumbled on to Cohen (www.twitter.com/coffeegroundz). I tweeted about an Italian restaurant in S. California & it caught his eye. I soon found out that he was taking take-out orders from his customers via Twitter. The following paragraph tells the story:

On October 31st, 2008 Sean Stoner (@maslowbeer) was hungry. As a regular customer at The Coffee Groundz he sent a tweet to Cohen (@coffeegroundz). Cohen quickly replied and Sean went through the drive-thru at The Coffee Groundz to pick up his burrito. This simple exchange got a lot of coverage on Twitter and was hailed as potentially the first time that Twitter had ever been used to place a to-go order. Seeing an opportunity, Cohen started taking to-go orders via direct message from any of his Twitter Clientele. This in turn so intrigued me, that I sent off a tweet to Cohen and ask if I could interview him about this Twitter-inspired drive through window.

Here is JR Cohen, General Manager, who is also the guy you speak with when you go to The Coffee Groundz:

Q: What kind of business do you have?
A: We have a Café in Midtown Houston.

Q: When did you start your business?
A: I started with the company 2 years ago. The company started in Sugar Land, TX, first around 4yrs ago, and then we opened the Midtown location in July of 2007. We closed the Sugar Land location down in April of 2008.

Q: How did you decide what kind of business to start?
A: The Company was formed by two best friends: Jonathan Zadok and Preetish Nijhawan. They wanted to open a coffee shop that had a European feel, but catered to the American market. It was very important to the owners to have a very comfortable atmosphere that would cater to everyone. We offer just about everything and if a customer suggests that we should carry something else, 99.5% of the time, we do it. People who are working for themselves or don’t have an office, have found solace with our location. We provide many electrical outlets inside and on the patio. It really makes them happy because they don’t have to leave to recharge.

Q: Did you need to have a certain mindset to achieve success?
A: Working “WITH” the owners and our staff, personally drives me every day. Not being a corporation, has allowed us to do what we want and run our business the way most companies can’t accomplish without going through a whole chain of command. We are all hands on when it comes to every aspect of our business. We are willing to try anything out there that might help us financially or secure our future. Perfect example is Social Media. We are believers and we inspire many others, while turning them into believers. It’s the creativity that we put into it, that has saved us from going out of business. The exposures from these outlets have been amazing.

Q: When did you start the Twitter account?
A: We started using Twitter in Sept 2008. It wasn’t until November that we really promoted it.

Q: What was your initial purpose in starting the account? Is your purpose to inform? Entertain?
A: One of the Owners here, Preetish Nijhawan, his cousin lives out in San Francisco and told Preetish that The Coffee Groundz should start using Twitter. I had no idea what he was talking about. He said don’t worry I’ll be your first follower. I laughed and said ‘well then’ that makes it ok. So I started exploring on Twitter and posted some signs in the store letting our customers know that we were on Twitter. How I use Twitter, is in whatever way I can think of. Some examples are information, feedback, setting up events, to-go orders, raising money/awareness to charities, and helping out our local communities.

Q: Is it just you that runs the Twitter account or is it a couple of people?
A: LOL!!! I get this question a lot. I, J.R., am the only one that tweets from the account.

Q: How does Twitter help you build a relationship with your clientele?
A: The use of Twitter is endless. It’s up to the individual to create and get what they want out of it. Our online community is just as tangible as our customers coming in the door. Many forget how important the online community is. If customers DM their order to go, they can give us feedback or make requests as well.

Q: If I told you that I didn’t think there was any ROI in Twitter, what would you say to turn a non believer into a believer?
A: Not to sound arrogant, but Follow me on Twitter (www.twitter.com/coffeegroundz).

Q: How does Coffee Groundz measure the ROI for its Twitter efforts?
A: I measure it when I meet someone from online, at The Coffee Groundz, and engage in a conversation. What people need to remember is that its “Social Media”, converting from online to person. We are constantly striving to become the “Cheers” of the modern technical age.

J.R. Cohen
The Coffee Groundz
www.thecoffeegroundz.com
Address: 2503 Bagby, Houston, TX. 77006
Phone: 713-874-0082
Email: jonathan@thecoffeegroundz.com
Twitter: www.twitter.com/CoffeeGroundz
Facebook we are under Groups and Fan page – The Coffee Groundz
To learn more about JR’s thoughts about using Twitter for you business, check out: http://cli.gs/8Mhb3L
Photo’s were taken by Katharine Shilcutt aka @She_Eats on Twitter & Elain Mesker

Church and State

Mia — Sat, 21 Mar 2009 01:45:07 +0000

Church and State Bistro (213) 405-1434
1850 Industrial St., Los Angeles, CA 90021

Church & State has to go down as one of the more unusual restaurant pairings in Southern California: owner Steven Arroyo, best known for casual clubby places such as Cobras & Matadors, and chef Walter Manzke, renowned for his meticulous French- California cuisine at Bastide, Patina and L’Auberge Carmel.

How Arroyo and his partner Yassmin Sarmadi scored the highly qualified chef, I don’t know. Arroyo has certainly never had a name chef at any of his other places (other than Grace’s Neal Fraser very early in his career). But then again, now may not be the best time to find a job in fine dining.

If you tried the restaurant when it opened and were disappointed, let me just say this: After a rocky start that ended in the original chef leaving, the restaurant is really humming. Manzke is throwing himself into the bistro genre with gusto. He’s making his own charcuterie. He’s changing the menu every few days. He’s in the zone.

For anyone looking for a restaurant downtown that has good food, and feels festive and fun, all without straining the pocketbook too much, that place is Church & State.

Manzke is working like someone possessed. He’s the guy in the open kitchen with the flattop haircut and an old-fashioned kind of face that wouldn’t look out of place on the AMC series “Mad Men.” Hands-on all the way, he’s even crafting his own hardwood cutting boards for the charcuterie and cheese platters.

Originally the loading dock of the 1925 National Biscuit Co. building, the one big dining room has a funky festive look with piazza lights strung across the high ceilings with visible pipes and ducts. Old mirrors and chairs with red leather seats complete the bistro look and tall windows look out onto Industrial Street and the Toy Factory Lofts across the street. The neighborhood can be dicey, but this precious little block is full of life in the dark — loft dwellers walking their dogs, downtown folks bicycling home, high heels clicking on the sidewalks. With the spangled lights reflected in the windows across the way, this tiny section of the city begins to take on some of the industrial chic of the meatpacking district in New York.

The clatter and bang from the kitchen competes with the music pumping out from the sound system — all you feel is the beat: it’s hard to tell what it is. But nobody seems to care: They’re too busy eating and drinking, big groups of six or eight friends crowded in at one table, or couples strung out at small tables along the back wall.

At one, a slender girl in a tight black vest, short skirt and black stockings toasts her companion and digs into an iced platter of oysters. They’re Kumamotos and Kushis from the Northwest, nice and cold, fresh and delicious.

Dishes to share

The server madly pushes candles, plates, glasses away to clear a space in the middle of the table for the charcuterie presented on a foot-and-a-half-long cutting board. Most of it is made in-house — lovely rounds of rabbit galantine studded with pistachios, a delicate partridge terrine with truffles, jambon persillé (pig’s feet and Kurobuta ham with parsley pressed into a rectangle), slivers of deep red duck breast prosciutto (not all of them are available every day).

Manzke also turns out French canning jars filled with pork rillettes (pork cooked in pork fat that’s rather on the lean side here) topped with prunes and Armagnac, and fabulously silky and rich foie gras with a layer of Port gelée on top.

There’s peppery saucisson sec from Jason Balestrieri of Cantinetta Luca in Carmel (Manzke’s former sous chef), and a savory tongue and blood sausage from the European Deluxe Sausage Kitchen in Beverly Hills. Order up a bottle of sturdy red wine from the rustic, but limited, wine list and you’re good to go.

Another great dish to share is either of the Alsatian-style tarts. The first is aflammenküche, a large rectangular tart topped with sweet caramelized onions, cubes of bacon and Gruyère cheese rather than the traditional crème fraîche. It’s essentially a tomato-less pizza with bacon. What’s not to like? More sumptuous even is the tart blanketed in lemon crème fraîche, leeks and satiny smoked salmon. Not only is the topping terrific, the crust for both the tarts is thin and crunchy. The secret? The pastry is enriched with a little lard. And both tarts are so large, they’re too much for just two. Bring a few friends along and share as an appetizer.

And sharing is what most makes sense here. Everyone will want to taste everything. Plates fly around the table as someone wants to try the bouillabaisse, which is a kind of miracle. The broth actually tastes like something from the south of France, redolent of flavorful fish and loaded with prawns, mussels and clams. If you’re in a crowd, maybe you’d better get two: The portion isn’t huge, which is why they can charge just $18. Moules marinière is classic: mussels steamed in white wine and served with a heap ofpommes frites fried in lard, which gives them a wonderful flavor, even though the aioli that comes with them is too wimpy.

How can you not love a bistro that proposes herring and potato salad? In this case it’s smoked, marinated herring with boiled fingerling potatoes in a bright, vinegary dressing, with flower-shaped carrot slices for some crunch. Sometimes there’s a marvelous leek terrine, pretty and green, and served with a thatch of celery root salad.

Don’t pass up the escargots, an order of six, each served in an adorable tiny blue and white porcelain dish capped with a golden disk of puff pastry. There are plenty to share — or maybe not, once you dip your spoon into that garlicky snail butter and find out how good snails can be when made by somebody who really knows how to cook.

Keeping it simple

Manzke has wisely stripped the menu down to a single page, with most main courses under $20. Even the very decent steak frites, which come with house-made béarnaise, come in a smaller size — a petite assiette for a mere $14 as opposed to $24 for the regular.

We’re all seeking comfort food right now and chicken à la Bourgeoise is just what’s required, moist tender chicken roasted with carrots, pearl onions and bacon and served with a splash of the pan drippings. Manzke does a fine duck confit too, served with luscious braised red cabbage.

There’s a different cassoulet almost every night, sometimes with pork sausage and duck, other times with roasted winter vegetables. But whichever version is available, the beans are cooked through, not always a given in this town.

The same stripped-down aesthetic also serves the cheese selection well — not too many, but just enough. The half-dozen or so selections mean the restaurant isn’t left trying to sell off old cheeses.

Late-night diners

It’s a late-night crowd downtown, with more and more people filtering in as the night wears on. Some come for a glass of wine and a steak tartare or some frites at the bar. Others come to try the absinthe setup or wait for a table.

I can imagine people slipping in for a dessert too, maybe a slice of that brown butter tart dotted with dried sour cherries and served with a billowy kirsch sabayon or perhaph the dark chocolate tart with fresh raspberries & sauce. Or maybe the lemon pot de crème with the lilt of citrus to lift the sweetness.

Let’s hope Manzke stays, because with Arroyo’s sense of fun and Manzke’s deft French cooking, Church & State has the heart and soul of a true French bistro married to an authentic sense of place: Los Angeles.

By S. Irene Virbila, Restaurant Critic March 18, 2009

Onions, Carrots, Church & State & Pizza

Mia — Wed, 18 Mar 2009 07:04:28 +0000

Now that you have read the title of my blog, let me explain. I have a bunch of post started and I have not finished. I am really good at carrying around a bunch of posts that I write in my head and then struggle to get them out on paper. They sound so good in my head & then sound really corny on paper. Any way on that note let me start with onions.
I was going to write a post on onions because I love the history behind them & I will finish it sometime soon. But for now this is my favorite line that motivated me to do a post. In ancient Egypt, an onion was placed in the right hand upon taking an oath. Its round shape and layers were a symbol of eternity. Ok, moving right along to carrots.

I have been on a special diet the last 3 weeks. I am not eating carbs, sugar (includes fruit) & dairy. When you are a chef and have to eat this way, it really stretches you to keep your interest in food and still stay true to the diet. On a side note, it will go another 3 weeks, but I am adding in brown rice & red skin potatoes. Now, I need to explain carrots. I found a recipe that fits the diet and tastes so good. It’s colorful, tasty and light. I have been eating it as a main course, but it was label as a appetizer.

Carrot Pillows
(about 12)
Mix together in a medium bowl
5 carrots (medium) peeled & shredded
1 tsp fresh lemon juice or balsamic vinegar (to taste)
a pinch of salt
a few grinds of pepper

Slice 6 slices of prosciutto in half (vertical)
12 fresh basil leaves, washed

Take a piece of prosciutto; place a liberal tablespoon of carrots in the middle, place a basil leaf on top. Starting on a side roll them up and insert a toothpick to hold. They look so bright & pretty.

Enjoy!

Now on to Church & State Bistro,

Church and State Bistro

(213) 405-14341850 Industrial St., Los Angeles, CA 90021

Friday night, Sweet heart and I went to dinner at Church and State Bistro. It opened in September 2008. In December they hired a new chef, Walter Manzke, from the now defunked Bastide . There are many things on the menu: oysters on the half shell, house-made charcuterie, cheese plates and salads. The menu mostly concentrates on the classics — tartes, onion soup, escargot, steak tartare, pommes frites.

We went down for dinner and parked in the secure parking lot. We walk over to the restaurant and were seated at table 44, our favorite, right away. We were warmly greeted by one of the owners, Yassmin Sarmadi (the other owner is Steven Arroyo), and the house manager, Josh. To be continued…………

The food is amazing, atmosphere is fun and the whole experience is so worth it. I will finish this post and give you more details about the food in the very near future. They are doing a wine dinner, Thursday (3-19-09) night, which sounds out of this world. Give them a shout & go on down. It is so worth the drive.

Ok, moving right along to pizza.
I went to Sur La Table the other day and finally got my hands on a Mario Batali cast iron pizza pan. I love it! I washed and oiled it, rolled out the pizza crust & placed it on the pan. I placed on the toppings & popped it in to a 450 degree oven. I baked it for 14 minutes and got the most beautiful pizza. It was a golden brown on top & the bottom was the same way. The pizza came off the pan with zero stick. I have since used it twice and the results have been the same. I am sure the pan could be used to bake free form bread. I love it, but one word of caution, it is extremely heavy as is any cast iron piece. It retail for about $69.95 and is worth every dime. Give the pan a try and let me know what you think.

Whew, I got it all out on paper and now I will go back & make an honest effort to do a post for each topic because, I have a lot more to say & hope you don’t mind reading it.

Support your favorite restaurants…please

Mia — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 05:26:53 +0000

I wrote a post about this subject a couple month back, but it has once again been brought to my attention, that people need to do their part so that when the good times are back again we will have our favorite restaurants to go to. I know of one restaurant that recently had to cut their payroll by a good size chunk to continue to keep the doors open, mind you, this location has a huge following. Think of the new locations that are still struggling to get on their feet and do them a favor and be a regular.

Here are some suggestions to cut back on the total of your bill: Order a few appetizers (you get to taste more of the menu too) and share a main course. Have a drink before you go to dinner and skip the mix drink. Order a bottle of moderately price wine and forgo the wine by the glass. Skip dessert or share one. Go out for dessert and a drink after eating dinner at home. Some restaurants have a “stimulus” menu. (Joe’s has a Prix Fixe Menu for $45. JiRaffe has Monday Night Bistro, 3 courses, $38.) Savor every bite. Go to more than one restaurant in an evening. (I will first go to one and have my meal and then go to the next one for coffee and dessert.) Tip generously and let the chef or restaurateur know how much you appreciate what they’re doing.

You cannot keep the entire restaurant scene alive by yourself, but you can support the restaurants that have meant something to you over the years. Show your face: Don’t just disappear. It’s better to come in more often for a bite at the bar than once in a blue moon for a big blowout dinner.

If we don’t support our restaurants now, they may not be still serving when things turn around and we really have something to celebrate. (I don’t mean to scare you, but do think about it.) My boyfriend and I go to our favorite restaurants; BarPintxo , Joe’s , Josie , Church and State Bistro (213) 405-1434, Piccolo ,Beacon , Melisse , Jiraffe and Casa, because we want to see them through a “tough” time. Please do the same for your favorites and we will all get through this together.
P.S. Valentine’s Day is Saturday Febuary 14th. Don’t forget to make reservations.

Modern Day Renaissance Man

Mia — Fri, 21 Nov 2008 06:37:44 +0000

Steve, my boyfriend, recently shared a story about one of our favorite restaurants and it’s interesting history. He worked with a colleague, Joe Miller, and had no idea at the time that he would become such an influence in the restaurant industry.

Joe Miller and Steve Brevidoro

Steve worked in the restaurant business from 1978 to 1990 and along the way noticed that the restaurant business was slowly going in the wrong direction. He was bartender and noticed that the health craze was slowly working its way into the business of drinking and was gradually taking its toll on the restaurants that were gaining profits from the bar and food service. Of course, the health craze was justified, but tips and profits were going down. In 1985, he was working at a cuisine restaurant named Lalo’s, which was far ahead of its time but opened with dreams of hitting the big time. But the healthy environment was again taking its toll on cocktails, moving from Chivas Regal to spritzers. Subsequently the lack of tips and profits led Lalo’s to close in 1990. The volume that they envisioned never materialized. Steve went onto a wine steward job at i Cugini, an upscale Italian restaurant, in Santa Monica. It is there he met the sous chef at the time, Joe Miller.

At the time Joe had his eye on a small space for a restaurant in Venice on Abbot Kinney Blvd. He casually mentioned that he had spent enough time in the kitchen and it was time to open his own idea. He closed his deal, in the old Hans Rockenwagner space on Abbot Kinney and opened Joe’s Restaurant. Little did anyone know in 1991, that this chef had was about to transform the industry, which was so needed at the time.

First he featured himself as a top chef creating a “California cuisine” that would incorporate fresh food and ingredients coupled with the flair that he was waiting to unleash. Tenderloin beef over mashed potatoes, which previously was not really on the LA scene, was a staple on the menu, as well as a simple chicken ravioli dish and a spicy chicken dish. Soups and salads were simple and fresh. Food paired with wines gained quick recognition on the LA scene. Second, his bohemian spot in Venice was much understated, with a clean white tablecloth, smart dishware, simple flowers on the table and wooden chairs made people feel welcomed and not intimidated. Lastly, he came out from behind the kitchen to “greet” the patrons, which made people feel like they were part of Joe’s family.

Although we take these things for granted in 2008, and we had seen some of those attributes before 1991, we had never seen the combination done with such ease and class. Joe’s food was received very well and it soon became one of the hardest tables to get during the 1990′s and 2000′s. Joe’s restaurant was smallish at the start, some 14 tables or so, and this made it novel. It has since expanded.

Over the years Joe has influenced some of the finest chefs in LA to create their own artful ideas on food. Steve, who had gone into the insurance business and was the proud agent of Joe’s restaurant, was constantly being referred by Joe to other great chefs.

The one thing that Steve kept hearing from other chefs was “Give me the same thing that Joe has”, which he feels is a fitting tribute to a chef that virtually transformed the restaurant scene in Los Angeles. Joe’s timing in 1991 was perfect and the entire region was grateful for this humble talent.

Make sure you visit Joe’s in Venice at 1029 Abbot Kinney Blvd. or his new restaurant Bar Pintxo at 109 Santa Monica Blvd. and tip your hat to Joe. So many restaurants feature his vision and you probably are not even aware.

Support your local restaurants

Mia — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 18:24:43 +0000

S. Irene Virbila, LA Times restaurant critic, wrote a wonderful article about supporting your local restaurants. I so enjoyed it that I wanted to pass on the article to my readers and include my take on the subject.

With everyone focusing on the “tough” economic times, everyone seems to be staying home and not eating out much. I understand, I have been doing it too. But, we have to remember that when the good times are back again we want our favorite places to be here. My boyfriend and I go to our favorite restaurants; Bar Pintxo , Joe’s , Josie , Church and State Bistro (213) 405-1434, Piccolo , Beacon , Melisse , Jiraffe, Casa – this restaurant is not open yet, because we want to see them through a “tough” time. Please do the same for your favorites and we will all get through this together.

By S. IRENE VIRBILA, Restaurant Critic

November 19, 2008

Mimi Sheraton, the former New York Times restaurant critic, told me that when she gave up reviewing restaurants, she couldn’t wait to cook — and stay — at home again. She relished the thought of not having to go out every night. But on her third or fourth night at home, she and her husband sat down at the dinner table, looked at each other, put down their napkins — and acknowledged the inevitable. “Let’s go out,” she said. And they did.

Cabin fever had set in. And it can happen to any of us. Now that broad swaths of folks across the country are tightening their belts, negotiating a budget (sometimes for the first time) and deciding where to cut expenses, dining out might be getting the ax. Never did staying home and cooking your way through that stack of cookbooks gathering dust by the bed ever look so, well, virtuous. Why go out when we can cook just as well as most restaurants for less than half the price?

Actually, there is a very good reason. If everyone suddenly gives up restaurant-going when times are tough, those favorite restaurants may no longer be around when times get better. Which means it’s a good thing, every once in a while at least, to give in to that cabin fever and go out for dinner.

Oh, eating in every night is fun for a while. Cozy family meals on weeknights, dinner parties or potlucks on the weekends, pancakes Sunday morning. But then there’s the shopping, the cleaning up — the claustrophobia. Only you and your dear ones. And piles of dishes to wash up.

Lately, I seem to be hearing more often from friends who have adopted the stay-at-home diet with a vengeance. “What’s new? What’s hot?” They plague me with questions about the restaurant scene without the least intention of going to any of these places. Kind of like my father, who read every movie review yet never went to a movie.

A place like Palate Food + Wine, where everything is miraculously below $20, may get their attention. But it’s so far, they’ll say. Or they’ll complain that you can’t just waltz in on a Friday night.

Easier reservations

And I have to point out that while your modest neighborhood restaurant may be doing good business, other restaurants are languishing, especially during the week. These days it is possible to walk into Pizzeria Mozza and maybe find a spot at the bar or occasionally nab a reservation at Osteria Mozza later than 5 p.m. and earlier than 10. Need I say more? A table at Cut may still require some lead time, but not as much as before the economic meltdown. Last week, with only a couple of hours’ notice, I got a table at XIV, the new Michael Mina restaurant in West Hollywood.

And what about places that are less well known? The restaurateurs and chefs eager to make their mark on the culinary landscape but without the bank accounts to see them through the slowdown? They need customers — and now.

I can’t help but think that if everybody suddenly becomes incredibly disciplined stay-at-home cooks, when things turn around, which of your favorite restaurants will still be around? Will you be able to indulge in older Barolo and Sangiovese at Valentino or try a bottle from a new producer Piero Selvaggio ferreted out on his last trip to Italy? Will you be able to slip onto the bar stool at Lucques for steak frites with made-to-order béarnaise sauce or dig into a plate of Gino Angelini’s bucatini all’ Amatriciana at Angelini Osteria any time you get the urge? Will Michael Cimarusti still be turning out his astonishing tasting menus at Providence or Pieter Verheyde be pouring some wonderful find from Croatia or Friuli in the garden at Bastide (323-651-5950)? Will you be able to feast on the ham of hams – jamón ibérico – at Bar Pintxo late at night or a towering chilled seafood platter at Anisette?

OK, OK. I don’t mean to scare anybody. Just please, don’t entirely give up on going out to your favorite restaurants. They need your support. Now, more than ever, it’s important to be a regular.

You don’t have to go overboard. Maybe cut back on the pricey cocktails or the glass of Champagne. Order a modest bottle of wine instead of wines by the glass: It’s always a better deal, and you’ll drink better too. Instead of zeroing in on that stupendousbistecca for two or that pasta lavished with truffles, see what else the menu has to offer.

Less costly options

I think you’ll find that restaurateurs share your pain and have added some less-pricey items, or modestly priced prix-fixe meals. You certainly don’t have to feel deprived. There are lots of ways to eat well without going crazy. Share an appetizer or a main course. Skip dessert. But do savor every bite. Tip generously and let the chef or restaurateur know how much you appreciate what they’re doing.

Because if we don’t support our restaurants now, they may not be still serving when things turn around and we really have something to celebrate.

irene.virbila@latimes.com

Piccolo

Mia — Fri, 31 Oct 2008 04:59:09 +0000

Piccolo
5 Dudley avenue Venice, California 90291
phone 310.314.3222 ¦ www.piccolovenice.com

Piccolo is on the Santa Monica-Venice beachfront. Low-key and not easy to find, Piccolo offers something close to true regional Italian cooking.

Recently, my friend and I arrive at 6pm. Vittorio Viotti, owner, and Roberto (BoBo) Ivan, chef, come out of the kitchen and both greet us warmly. We arrived for an early dinner because, I’ve never arrived when there wasn’t at least a short wait; on weekends it’s much longer. Piccolo doesn’t currently take reservations, although they are starting on November 1, 2008. On this night, the tables out front are empty, the wind is gusting off the ocean and it is enough to make every one want an indoor table. It is cold outside and I am glad that I brought a coat.

There are approximately 12 tables inside and there always seems to be people waiting on the stairs. The kitchen is no bigger than a home kitchen, I am not kidding, and with Ivan, two cooks and a few others back there, its close quarters. With a small kitchen and so few tables, everyone is close to each other. The tables by the kitchen are in big demand in the winter and in the summer the tables by the door are the ones most want, because of the heat from the kitchen.

The night we went my friend and I were in the mood for pure comfort food. On this night, cauliflower soup topped with lobster was the special. The soup was savory and silky with a touch of the lobster “sweet”. Our next course was the “Duck Prosciutto D’Anatra”, house made, the duck prosciutto is fan out on a plate, in the middle is a few micro greens, and this is drizzled with a bit of gorgonzola dressing. The prosciutto is buttery and with the contrast of the other flavors, this is a palate pleaser.

We then moved on to the main course, I had the Tagliatella Al Ragu Di Capriole-slow roasted venison ragu in a red wine sauce. Fresh, house made, pasta cook to al denta, the warmth on the tongue from the allspice, red wine, carrots, onion and garlic and venison cooked so tender that it all melts in your mouth. I love venison no matter how it is prepared and this dish is magnificent. My friend had the Agnello Al Rhubarb-slow roasted lamb shank with fresh rhubarb and shallot risotto. The lamb was moist and tender. It had the earthy flavors of lamb but what was amazing was the Porto and fresh rhubarb sauce that was drizzled on top. It is so difficult in words to express the flavors as they mingled and danced across my tongue. In fact, shhh don’t tell anyone, when my friend was finished I used a bit of bread to mop up the last of the sauce. The risotto had a nice deep caramelized shallot flavor, but was under-cooked and dry. This type of meal makes the waiting for a table at Piccolo entirely worthwhile. It’s not fancy, but it’s real cooking. The wine list is mostly Italian with choices from moderate to very expensive from all the important regions.

As we depart, blasted by the cold and gusty wind, all I could think about was when I would be returning for my next meal and the soup, oh the soup.

P.S. I did not see Joe on Friday

Mia — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 04:22:34 +0000

I was at Joe’s restaurant, Bar Pintxo, and he was at Joe’s Restaurant. It did not work out so well. I am going to reschedule this week.

On a side note, Spanish styled Tapas are served at Bar Pintxo and it is delicious! if you have not tried it out yet, it is a must!