Mia Cucina Su Cucina

Steve, my boyfriend, recently shared a story about one of our favorite restaurants and it’s interesting history. He worked with a colleague, Joe Miller, and had no idea at the time that he would become such an influence in the restaurant industry.

Joe Miller and Steve Brevidoro

Steve worked in the restaurant business from 1978 to 1990 and along the way noticed that the restaurant business was slowly going in the wrong direction. He was bartender and noticed that the health craze was slowly working its way into the business of drinking and was gradually taking its toll on the restaurants that were gaining profits from the bar and food service. Of course, the health craze was justified, but tips and profits were going down. In 1985, he was working at a cuisine restaurant named Lalo’s, which was far ahead of its time but opened with dreams of hitting the big time. But the healthy environment was again taking its toll on cocktails, moving from Chivas Regal to spritzers. Subsequently the lack of tips and profits led Lalo’s to close in 1990. The volume that they envisioned never materialized. Steve went onto a wine steward job at i Cugini, an upscale Italian restaurant, in Santa Monica. It is there he met the sous chef at the time, Joe Miller.

At the time Joe had his eye on a small space for a restaurant in Venice on Abbot Kinney Blvd. He casually mentioned that he had spent enough time in the kitchen and it was time to open his own idea. He closed his deal, in the old Hans Rockenwagner space on Abbot Kinney and opened Joe’s Restaurant. Little did anyone know in 1991, that this chef had was about to transform the industry, which was so needed at the time. 

First he featured himself as a top chef creating a “California cuisine” that would incorporate fresh food and ingredients coupled with the flair that he was waiting to unleash. Tenderloin beef over mashed potatoes, which previously was not really on the LA scene, was a staple on the menu, as well as a simple chicken ravioli dish and a spicy chicken dish. Soups and salads were simple and fresh. Food paired with wines gained quick recognition on the LA scene. Second, his bohemian spot in Venice was much understated, with a clean white tablecloth, smart dishware, simple flowers on the table and wooden chairs made people feel welcomed and not intimidated. Lastly, he came out from behind the kitchen to “greet” the patrons, which made people feel like they were part of Joe’s family. 

Although we take these things for granted in 2008, and we had seen some of those attributes before 1991, we had never seen the combination done with such ease and class. Joe’s food was received very well and it soon became one of the hardest tables to get during the 1990′s and 2000′s. Joe’s restaurant was smallish at the start, some 14 tables or so, and this made it novel. It has since expanded.

Over the years Joe has influenced some of the finest chefs in LA to create their own artful ideas on food. Steve, who had gone into the insurance business and was the proud agent of Joe’s restaurant, was constantly being referred by Joe to other great chefs.

The one thing that Steve kept hearing from other chefs was “Give me the same thing that Joe has”, which he feels is a fitting tribute to a chef that virtually transformed the restaurant scene in Los Angeles. Joe’s timing in 1991 was perfect and the entire region was grateful for this humble talent.

Make sure you visit Joe’s in Venice at 1029 Abbot Kinney Blvd. or his new restaurant Bar Pintxo at 109 Santa Monica Blvd. and tip your hat to Joe. So many restaurants feature his vision and you probably are not even aware.